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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.